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<rss version="2.0">
<channel>
	<title>Ultimate Fowl Wiki</title> 
	<description>Poultry breeding, health, and care.</description> 
	<link>http://ultimatefowl.atwiki.com/</link> 



		<item>
		<title>
			 <![CDATA[ Ivomec ]]> 
		</title>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[ == Ivomec Injectable (ivermectin)==

'''Ivomec''' injectable is used for treatment of [[Gapeworm|worms]] in your [[Gamefowl|fowl]], and can be used to help keep external parasites, like [[Red Mites]], down too.


== Dosage ==

You will need a syringe to get ivomec out of the bottle, and you can use it to apply the dosage listed below by holding the birds mouth open, and dripping it into the back of its throat. Another method is to apply the correct dosage to a piece of bread, then feed it to the bird you are treating.


*  5 to 7 drops orally for adult size birds.
*  3 to 5 drops orally for bantam size birds.


It is recommended to worm your fowl on a regular basis, and this method will need to be repeated every 2 to 3 months to keep worms under control.  In severe cases, you may want to retreat the bird 10 days after the initial treatment, to make sure you take care of the problem.  

Ivomec can be purchased at most farm supply stores in the cattle section.


== Warning ==

Take care not to eat [[egg|eggs]] after treating with Ivomec until the treated fowl has laid at least five to seven eggs. ]]> 
		</description>
		<link>
			http://ultimatefowl.atwiki.com/page/Ivomec
		</link>
		<pubDate>Mon, 04 Aug 2008 14:25:26 +0000</pubDate>
	</item>
		<item>
		<title>
			 <![CDATA[ Poultry Mites ]]> 
		</title>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[ ==Poultry Mites==


There are two major types of''' mites''' found on the body of poultry. They are the Northern Fowl Mite (or in tropical environ�ments, the Tropical Fowl Mite) and the Chicken Mite (or Red Roost Mite).

The Northern Fowl Mite is the most common external parasite in poultry, especially in cool weather climates. It sucks blood from all different types of fowl and can live in the temperate regions of the world. As compared to the Chicken Mite, the Northern Fowl Mite primarily remains on the host for its entire life cycle. These mites can live off the host bird for 2 to 3 weeks. These mites are small and black or brown in color, have 8 legs, and are commonly spread through bird-to-bird contact. The Tropical Fowl Mite is comparable to the Northern Fowl Mite but lives in the tropical regions.

The Chicken Mite is a nocturnal mite that is primarily a warm weather pest. These mites suck the blood from the birds at night �and then hide in the cracks and crevices of the houses during the day. Chicken Mites are dark brown or black, much like the Northern Fowl Mite.

The life cycle of mites can be as little as 10 days, which allows for a
quick turnover and heavy infestations. Mites can be transferred between flocks by crates, clothing, and wild birds. Mites are capable of living in the environment and off the host bird for a period of time. Diagnoses of mite infestations are similar to that of lice; however since mites can live off the bird and some are nocturnal, inspect birds and housing facilities at night especially if you suspect that the Chicken Mite is the cause of the infestation. Observable signs may include darkening of the feathers on white feathered birds due to mite feces; scabbing of the skin near the vent; mite eggs on the fluff feathers and along the feather shaft (Figure 2); or congregations of mites around the vent, ventral abdomen, tail, or throat. Since mites congregate around the ventral region, they can also reduce a rooster’s ability of successful matings

==Flock Symptoms==


Flocks infested with lice or mites show similar general symptoms. Birds will have decreased egg production; decreased weight gain; decreased carcass-grading quality; increased disease susceptibility; and decreased food intake. If any of these generalized symptoms are observed, a visual evaluation is recommended. Inspect birds around the ventral region for signs of lice or mites since infestations usually start in this area of the bird.

==Treatments==


Sanitation and cleanliness are the keys to lice and mite control. Sanitation includes cleaning and disinfecting housing facilities and equipment between flocks. Moreover, reducing people traffic through housing facilities is recommended. Eliminating the contact between flocks and wild birds can reduce the potential transfer of external parasites. Chemical control can include the use of carbaryl (Sevin®). Treat the walls, floors, roosts, nest boxes, and the birds simultaneously. When dusting an entire house, be careful to avoid feed contamination. One treatment method for small flocks or individual birds is the use of a dusting bath with Sevin®. Place the bird into a garbage bag containing the medicated powder with the birds’ head out and rotate/shake the bag to completely cover the bird with powder. Be sure not to inhale the medicated powder during treatments. The use of a facial mask is recommended to prevent inhaling this medicated powder. Because the life cycle of lice and mites is. approximately 2 weeks, treatments should be repeated every 2 weeks as needed. Carefully read all labels prior to treatment to make sure withdrawal times are followed for food-producing poultry. Severe lice or mite infestations can be treated initially with a kitten strength dose of a pyrethrin-based medicated spray on the birds to reduce the initial numbers. If problems persist, contact a veterinarian for treatment with such medications as Ivermectin�. Prevention is the best method of treatment. For poultry used in exhibition or for new poultry entering the flock, a minimum quarantine period of 2 weeks is recommended. During this time birds should be physically examined and treated if necessary. 

==Sources==
http://ohioline.osu.edu/vme-fact/0018.html ]]> 
		</description>
		<link>
			http://ultimatefowl.atwiki.com/page/Poultry%20Mites
		</link>
		<pubDate>Mon, 04 Aug 2008 14:22:43 +0000</pubDate>
	</item>
		<item>
		<title>
			 <![CDATA[ FrontPage ]]> 
		</title>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[ Wiki is a type of websites. You can edit wiki pages easily.




     You can edit the content with WYSIWYG(HTML)-mode or TEXT-mode or WIKI-mode
     You can change web site style , If SignIn on page top right bottun. 
     Page Lock is signin user only. Lock-@id is @id user only editable. Lock-admin is admin only editable.


 ]]> 
		</description>
		<link>
			http://ultimatefowl.atwiki.com/page/FrontPage
		</link>
		<pubDate>Fri, 01 Aug 2008 18:56:03 +0000</pubDate>
	</item>
		<item>
		<title>
			 <![CDATA[ Candling ]]> 
		</title>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[ Sometimes it is necessary to test the incubated eggs for fertility. If large numbers of infertile eggs are incubated, they can be found and discarded, and the extra space used for additional eggs. This test will not injure the young embryos and is reliable for eliminating eggs that will not hatch.

Make a tester or candler by placing a light bulb and fixture inside a cardboard box. Cut a small, round hole in the top or side of the box, and let a narrow beam of light escape from the box. You can see the internal features of the egg by placing it against the hole. A darkened room makes testing easier.

The eggs are normally tested after 4 to 7 days of incubation. Eggs with white shells are easier to test and can be tested earlier than dark shelled eggs. Two classes of eggs can be removed on the basis of this early test, &quot;infertiles&quot; and &quot;dead germs.&quot; &quot;Infertile&quot; refers to an unfertilized egg or an egg that started developing but died before growth could be detected. &quot;Dead germs&quot; refers to embryos that died after growing large enough to be seen when candled.

An &quot;infertile&quot; appears as a clear egg except for a slight shadow cast by the yolk. A live embryo is spider-like in appearance, with the embryo representing a spider's body and the large blood vessels spreading out much like a spider's legs. A &quot;dead germ&quot; can be distinguished by the presence of a blood ring around the embryo. This is caused by the movement of blood away from the embryo after death.

==Sources==
http://msucares.com/poultry/reproductions/poultry_testing_embryo.html ]]> 
		</description>
		<link>
			http://ultimatefowl.atwiki.com/page/Candling
		</link>
		<pubDate>Wed, 02 Jul 2008 02:12:55 +0000</pubDate>
	</item>
		<item>
		<title>
			 <![CDATA[ Incubators ]]> 
		</title>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[ The size and type of '''incubator''' selected depends on the needs and future plans of each producer. Many different models are available. For continuous settings, separate incubator and hatcher units are recommended. If all eggs in the unit are at the same stage of incubation, a single unit can be used.

Locate the incubator and hatcher units indoors to protect them from major weather changes. It is essential that the room has a good ventilation system to supply plenty of fresh air. Keeping the units indoors makes it easier to maintain uniform temperature and humidity.

There are basically two types of incubators available, forced-air and still-air incubators. Forced-air incubators have fans that provide internal air circulation. The capacity of these units may be very large. The still-air incubators are usually small without fans for air circulation. Air exchange is attained by the rise and escape of warm, stale air and the entry of cooler fresh air near the base of the incubator. Recommended temperatures vary between the two incubators, so follow the manufacturer's recommendation that accompany the units.

==Sources==
http://www.msstate.edu/dept/poultry/hatch.htm#sel ]]> 
		</description>
		<link>
			http://ultimatefowl.atwiki.com/page/Incubators
		</link>
		<pubDate>Wed, 02 Jul 2008 02:08:07 +0000</pubDate>
	</item>
		<item>
		<title>
			 <![CDATA[ Egg Storage and Care ]]> 
		</title>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[ Many times a producer carefully attends to the incubation process but disregards the care of the eggs before they are placed in the incubator. Even before incubation starts the embryo is developing and needs proper care. Hatching eggs suffer from reduced hatchability if the eggs are not cared for properly. Listed below are tips to help maintain hatching egg quality.

1. Collect eggs at least three times daily. When daily high temperatures exceed 85 degrees F. increase egg collection to five times daily. Collect two or three times in the morning and one or two times in the afternoon.
2. Slightly soiled eggs can be used for hatching purposes without causing hatching problems, but dirty eggs should not be saved. Do not wash dirty eggs.
3. Store eggs in a cool-humid storage area. Ideal storage conditions include a 55 degree F. temperature and 75% relative humidity. Store the eggs with the small end pointed downward.
4. Alter egg position periodically if not incubating within 4-6 days. Turn the eggs to a new position once daily until placing in the incubator.
5. Hatchability holds reasonably well up to seven days, but declines rapidly afterward. Therefore, do not store eggs more than 7 days before incubating. After 3 weeks of storage, hatchability drops to almost zero. Plan ahead and have a regular hatching schedule to avoid storage problems and reduced hatches.
6. Allow cool eggs to warm slowly to room temperature before placing in the incubator. Abrupt warming from 55 degrees to 100 degrees causes moisture condensation on the egg shell that leads to disease and reduced hatches.

==Sources==
http://www.msstate.edu/dept/poultry/hatch.htm#sel ]]> 
		</description>
		<link>
			http://ultimatefowl.atwiki.com/page/Egg%20Storage%20and%20Care
		</link>
		<pubDate>Wed, 02 Jul 2008 02:06:47 +0000</pubDate>
	</item>
		<item>
		<title>
			 <![CDATA[ Selection of Hatching Eggs ]]> 
		</title>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[ Most producers set as many eggs as their breeders produce. If incubator space is the limiting factor, it is more profitable to select the better quality eggs for incubating.

A few tips to follow when selecting '''hatching eggs''' are:

* Select eggs from breeders that are (1) well developed, mature and healthy; (2) compatible with their mates and produce a high percentage of fertile eggs; (3) are not disturbed much during the mating season; (4) fed a complete breeder diet; and (5) not directly related [brother, sister, mother, father, etc.].
* Avoid excessively large or small eggs. Large eggs hatch poorly and small eggs produce small chicks.
* Avoid eggs with cracked or thin shells. These eggs have difficulty retaining moisture needed for proper chick development. Penetration of disease organisms increase in cracked eggs.
* Do not incubate eggs that are excessively misshapen.
* Keep only clean eggs for hatching. Do not wash dirty eggs or wipe eggs clean with a damp cloth. This removes the egg's protective coating and exposes it to entry of disease organisms. The washing and rubbing action also serves to force disease organisms through the pores of the shell. 

==Sources==
http://www.msstate.edu/dept/poultry/hatch.htm#sel ]]> 
		</description>
		<link>
			http://ultimatefowl.atwiki.com/page/Selection%20of%20Hatching%20Eggs
		</link>
		<pubDate>Wed, 02 Jul 2008 02:04:19 +0000</pubDate>
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		<item>
		<title>
			 <![CDATA[ Incubating &amp; Hatching ]]> 
		</title>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[ {| class=&quot;wikitable&quot; width=&quot;100%&quot;
| style=&quot;width:33%; vertical-align: top; background-color: #ffffff; padding:1em; border:1px solid #aaaaaa;&quot;|
==Incubating==




| style=&quot;width:33%; vertical-align: top; background-color: #ffffff; padding:1em; border:1px solid #aaaaaa;&quot;|
==Hatching==





| style=&quot;width:33%; vertical-align: top; background-color: #ffffff; padding:1em; border:1px solid #aaaaaa;&quot;|
==Raising Chicks==

*[[How to Raise Chicks]] ]]> 
		</description>
		<link>
			http://ultimatefowl.atwiki.com/page/Incubating%20%2526%20Hatching
		</link>
		<pubDate>Wed, 02 Jul 2008 01:56:44 +0000</pubDate>
	</item>
		<item>
		<title>
			 <![CDATA[ Incubation Troubleshooting ]]> 
		</title>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[ Maximum hatchability requires fresh eggs from well-bred and properly managed flocks. However, egg care and incubation is even more critical.

What follows is an analysis of common problems seen during this type of project. Check on the problem for a discussion of the possible causes and how they may be corrected.

'''Problem #1''': Eggs clear - no blood rings, no embryonic development Causes:

* Eggs infertile.
* Eggs damaged by being either badly chilled or overheated.
* Eggs held too long or held under improper conditions.

'''Correction:'''

o Keep eggs under proper temperature and humidity conditions and set within seven (7) days after date laid.
o Get eggs from another source.

'''Problem #2''': Eggs candling clear but showing blood ring or very small embryo when broken-out. . Causes:

* Badly chilled eggs or eggs overheated or held at too high a temperature.
* Improper incubator temperature at earliest stage of incubation.
* Eggs held too long or held under improper conditions of temperature and humidity.

'''Correction:'''

o Protect eggs against freezing temperatures, gather eggs often, cool properly and quickly; hold eggs under conditions recommended by breeder.
o Check accuracy of thermometer. Operate incubator at proper temperature.
o Keep eggs under proper temperature and humidity conditions and set them within seven (7) days after date laid.

'''Problem #3''': Early dead embryos during one to six days into incubation. Causes:

* Temperature too high or too low in incubation.
* Lack of ventilation.
* Improper turning of eggs.

'''Correction:'''

o Check accuracy of thermometer. Operate incubator at proper temperature.
o Provide adequate ventilation of the incubator room and proper openings of the incubator ventilators. Do not recirculate air. Supply 100 percent fresh, tempered air.
o Turn eggs at regular intervals 3 times daily.


'''Problem #4''': Any considerable number of embryos dead from the sixth through the sixteenth days of incubation (normally this is a period of relatively low embryonic death). Causes:

* Incubator temperature too high.
* Infected embryos either by infection from hens, or especially, by external microbial contamination through shell.
* Lack of ventilation.

'''Correction:'''

* Check accuracy of thermometer. Operate incubator at proper temperature.
* Provide adequate ventilation of the incubator room and proper openings of the incubator ventilators.

'''Problem #5:''' Chicks fully formed, but dead without pipping. May have considerable quantities of unabsorbed yolk. Causes:

* Low average humidity in incubator.
* See probable causes in problem #3 above.
* Chilled eggs.

'''Correction:'''

* Maintain proper humidity throughout incubation cycle.
* Gather eggs quickly, cool properly and hold under proper conditions.

'''Problem #6:''' Eggs pipped, but chicks dead in shell. Causes:

* Low average humidity.
* Inadequate ventilation.
* Excessive high temperature for a short period.
* Low average temperature.

'''Correction:'''

* Maintain proper humidity levels throughout incubation cycle.
* Provide adequate ventilation of the incubator room and proper openings of the incubator ventilators.
* Guard against temperature surge.
* Maintain proper temperature throughout incubation cycle.

'''Problem #7:''' Sticky chicks - chicks smeared with egg contents. Causes:

* Low average temperature
* Average humidity too high.
* Inadequate ventilation.

'''Correction:'''

o Use proper operating temperature.
o Maintain proper humidity levels throughout incubation cycle.
o Provide adequate ventilation of the incubator room and proper openings of the incubator ventilators


'''Problem #8:''' Dry sticks - shell sticking to chicks. Causes:

* Eggs dried down too much.
* Low humidity at hatching time.
* Improper egg turning.

'''Correction:'''

o Maintain proper humidity levels during egg-holding period and throughout incubation cycle. Do not over-ventilate.
o Proper humidity levels throughout incubation cycle.
o Turn eggs hourly or at least at regular intervals eight times daily.


'''Problem #9:''' Chicks hatching too early with bloody navels. Causes:

* Temperature too high.

'''Correction:'''

o Maintain proper temperature levels throughout incubation cycle.


'''Problem #10:''' Large, soft-bodies, mushy chicks dead on trays with bad odor. Causes:

* Low average temperature.
* Poor ventilation in incubator.
* Humidity too high during incubation.

'''Correction:'''

o Maintain proper temperature throughout incubation cycle.
o Provide proper ventilation of the incubator room and proper opening of the incubator ventilators.
o Maintain proper humidity levels throughout incubation cycle.


'''Problem #11''': Short down on chicks or eyelids stuck closed with down. Causes: .

o High temperature.
o Low humidity.
o Excessive ventilation in the incubator at hatching time.
o Holding chicks in incubator too long after they hatch.

'''Correction:'''

* Maintain proper temperature levels throughout incubation cycle.
* Maintain proper humidity levels throughout incubation cycle.
* Reduce openings of incubator ventilators. Do not restrict so far as to permit animal heat to push temperature above safe level.
* Remove chicks as soon as they are fluffed and ready.


'''Problem #12:''' Delayed hatch - eggs not starting to pip until 21st day or later. Causes:

* Average temperature too low in the incubator.
* Eggs held too long.

'''Correction:'''

* Maintain correct temperature levels throughout incubation cycle.
* Before placing them in the incubator, try not to hold eggs more than seven days and then only if holding conditions are ideal.


'''Problem #13:''' Malformed chicks in poor hatch, usually associated with an excessive number of chicks dead in shell, with a high incidence of malpositions. Causes:

* Eggs held too long before setting, even under good conditions, or eggs held at length of time at improper levels of temperature and/or humidity.
* Eggs chilled before setting.
* Improper turning or setting
* Inadequate ventilation
* Abnormally high or abnormally low incubator temperature.
* Insufficient moisture.
* Damage to eggs in shipment caused by jarring or shipping them with large end down.
* Eggs from poor quality stock.

'''Correction:'''

* Try not to hold eggs more than seven days if at all possible and then only if holding conditions are ideal.
* Gather eggs quickly, cool properly before casing, and hold under proper conditions.
* Provide adequate ventilation of the incubator room and proper openings of the incubator ventilators. Do not recirculate air. Supply 100% fresh, tempered air.
* Maintain proper temperature levels throughout the incubation cycle.
* Maintain proper humidity levels throughout the incubation cycle.
* Hatching eggs must be shipping good quality, well-protected egg cases or equivalent, with small end down. Avoid rough
rough handling. 

===Sources===
Embryology.com ]]> 
		</description>
		<link>
			http://ultimatefowl.atwiki.com/page/Incubation%20Troubleshooting
		</link>
		<pubDate>Wed, 02 Jul 2008 01:49:11 +0000</pubDate>
	</item>
		<item>
		<title>
			 <![CDATA[ Chick Sexing ]]> 
		</title>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[ ==History==


The Japanese first introduced the art of sexing chickens into Queensland in 1934.

Until this time, no accurate method of determining the sex of day-old chickens had been discovered. Some claimed that a ring suspended by a piece of cotton and held over a fertile egg would swing one direction for a male and the other for a female. Others claimed that egg shape indicated whether a cockerel or pullet would hatch.

In 1933, Professor Masui and Professor Hashimoto published an English version of ´Sexing Baby Chickens´. In 1934, Dr Kiyoshi Oxawa visited Queensland and conducted the first classes on chicken sexing and by 1935 several Queenslanders (among them Dorothy McCulloch) had become proficient.
Advantages of sexing chickens

Enormous benefits have resulted from the ability to sex day-old chickens, not only to hatcheries but to the industry in general. The procedure has reduced the cost of rearing chickens by 50% which in turn has reduced labour and feed expenses. The advent of feather sexing has allowed the meat chicken industry (broilers) to separate males from females for a quicker turn around.

With the sexing of any normal population, you would expect to get 50% of each sex.
Methods for sexing

There are four accepted methods for sexing day-old chickens:

* cloacal or vent sexing (1935)
* machine method (1950s)
* feather sexing (1969)
* colour sexing (1975).

1. Vent or cloacal sexing

The art of vent or cloacal sexing of day-old chickens is difficult to master without instructions from an experienced sexer. Use the following to help develop the procedure. Before examining the vent, discharge the chicken´s excretions by lightly pressing on both sides of the abdomen in a downward motion.

* Place the chicken on its back in the palm of your hand with the head towards you, put thumb and first two fingers around its thighs to hold it.
* Tip your hand so that the chicken´s breast is towards you, vent uppermost.
* Place your middle fingers over the chicken´s breast to support the chicken leaving your thumb free. (If you have large hands, place the chicken´s head between your little finger and ring finger for additional support.)
* Place the thumb of your other hand on the lower portion of the vent (anus).
* Using the index finger start from the top of the vent moving down, back and around, rolling the vent in a sideways action.
* At the same time a similar action with the free thumb, starting from the top and rolling down and back.
* With the thumb and forefinger placed either side of the vent apply gentle pressure and a rolling action to evert the vent and expose the male eminence or lack of it (sexed as female). After a little practice this can be accomplished without injury or significant discomfort to the chicken.

The eminence or genital organ is found midway on the lower rim of the vent, and looks like a very small pimple. Even though its size and shape can vary considerably, it can be recognised with a little practice and a keen eye. Most males have a relatively prominent eminence, most females have none. However, a small proportion of both males and female have relatively small eminences. Sexing these chickens can be quite difficult but with regular practice the sexer will eventually learn to identify the differences.

When learning to sex chickens it is best to assume that chickens with small eminences are female. The male eminence is solid and will not disappear upon gentle rubbing with your thumb. Having access to chickens of known sex is a great help in developing the art of vent sexing and feather sexed meat chickens are ideal for this purpose.
2. Instrument or machine sexing

Instrument or machine sexing of chickens has almost disappeared, because the instruments are no longer available and spare parts cannot be obtained. The Keeler Optical (English) or Chicktester (Japanese) machine features a blunt ended telescopic tube, containing a light. The sexer inserts the tube into the evacuated cloaca and with the help of the light can identify either testis or ovaries. Successful development of this technique depends on the capability of the student and their level of experience.
The steps for instrument sexing are as follows:

Hold the instrument in one hand and the chicken as for vent or cloacal sexing (first three points). Thumb and first two fingers should be on either side of the chicken at thigh level. Use thumb and first two fingers to provide slight pressure near the vent to evacuate faecal contents.

* Gently insert the glass tip of the machine into the chicken´s vent and down the large intestine. Extreme care is needed not to puncture the large intestine.
* Use one eye to look through the instrument while keeping the other eye open.
* The testicles are observed to the right of the backbone and look like a grain of rice usually a white/yellow colour, some breeds exhibit a bit of black.
* If there are no testicles on the right, move the instrument to the left of the backbone and locate the ovary. This ovary is yellowish and shaped like an inverted triangle. The right ovary is diminished and unclear.

3. Feather sexing

In 1969, after three years of intensive genetic research, Tegels Poultry Breeding Company developed broiler chickens which could be feather sexed. The result was a strain that would produce slow-feathering males and fast feathering females.

In the slow feathering males the coverts are either the same length or longer than the primary wing feathers. In the fast feathering females, the primary wing feathers are longer than the coverts. This is caused by a gene located on the sex chromosome where slow feathering is dominant to rapid feathering and controls the rate of wing and tail feathering in the chicken. The dominant slow-feathering characteristic is passed from mothers to their sons and the rapid feathering characteristic from the fathers to their daughters.

Advantages of feather sexing include:

* increased rate of sexing (feather sexing is faster than machine sexing)
* 99% to 100% accuracy lower labour costs (feather-sexing training requires less time than machine sexing
* the skills are easily transferable.

4. Colour sexing

Commercial layer breeds have been developed in which the sex of the day-old chicken is identified by plumage (colour and markings); males are predominantly white and females brown. Colour sexing as a method of sexing has had a significant impact on reducing overall costs.
Conclusion

As a few large companies control the chicken breeding and hatching industry around the world, greater numbers of geneticists and technicians are being employed in research and development. This has accelerated the already rapid trend to breed sex linked crosses. Consequently the skill of the chicken sexer has been superseded, virtually making the manual art of chicken sexing obsolete.

==Sources==

http://www.dpi.qld.gov.au/cps/rde/dpi/hs.xsl/27_2712_ENA_HTML.htm ]]> 
		</description>
		<link>
			http://ultimatefowl.atwiki.com/page/Chick%20Sexing
		</link>
		<pubDate>Wed, 02 Jul 2008 01:40:07 +0000</pubDate>
	</item>
	

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